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On one of those very un-Florida winter days, the sky is swathed in soupy clouds, a steady, spitting rain chills the back of my neck, and I am slinking down 1st Street like a half-drowned cat. After 20 minutes of driving around downtown St. Petersburg, thwarted left and right (literally) by my poor understanding of its many one-way streets, I have ditched the car, cursed when I discovered I’d left my umbrella at home, and decided to hoof it anyway. I’m on a mission.